Tres Jolie Kit Club–Tag Folio!-June 2022 Cards, Tags, & More Kit

Hey, y’all!

Welcome to June! Did you get a chance to check out the kit reveals yesterday? This month’s kits are just fab!

For my first June project, I made a little tag-filled folio using this month’s Cards, Tags, & More Kit from Tres Jolie Kit Club, a few extras from my stash (ink, thread, & eyelets), and a cut file I created (I have the measurements I used listed below!).

So, grab your supplies and make yourself a little tag-folio!


I have a two-part tutorial (well, I talked a lot at any rate!) for this folio, part 1 is the tag cutting and base construction, and part 2 is the decorating and final touches. I go over cutting your folio base by hand if you aren’t using an electronic cutting machine, and my assembly process when putting everything together.

Part 1: Tag Cutting & Base Construction

Part 2: Decorating & Final Touches



First, a quick look at all the tags I made for my folio. I die cut a full sheet of the white cardstock, and six sheets of the patterned paper into a variety of tags – some to use this week, some to have ready for the rest of my projects this month. I used the white tags as my base, tore the patterned paper tags at about a 1/3rd – 2/3rd split, and mixed and matched the sides. I have had those butterfly eyelets for years now, and I thought it was about time to use some up, so I popped them into the holes on the tags.

I used a full sheet of the white cardstock to make my base. I have vertical score lines at 3-3/4”, 4”, 4-1/4”, 7-3/4”, 8”, and 8-1/4” and a horizontal score line 6” from the top. I didn’t cut the bottom 1/2” with the barcode and “KaiserCraft” off my sheet, so I have a score line at 12” also. I actually used that little bit during the construction to “protect” the bottom edges of my pockets during construction! Check out the image below to see all the measurements, plus I have some slot placement templates.


Slot Measurements:


Slot positioning templates are available as a PDF from my personal (non-Tres Jolie!!) DropBox for personal use only, please (attribution appreciated, but not required). When printed, the panels should be 4”x6” for an easy lineup with your edges and score lines – although printers & printer settings may vary! (Note: when testing, I made sure to print “actual size” from the printer dialog box and not “to fit” because Adobe and/or my printer wanted to make the 8-1/2”x11” image smaller to fit with margins on an 8-1/2”x11” sheet of paper!)



I made a pocket for each slot of my folio, but I have also added the measurements for alternate pockets so you have a variety to choose from:


*Measurements are to the center of the slot*


Part 1 of my videos covers the construction of the folio base, so I’ll just add some refresher details here on the blog. I lined my pockets up carefully, and got them in place – they are sized to be able to just be folded in half to fit – more or less – there may be a couple that requires some tweaking by folding slightly more than half. I used a combination of double-sided tape and glue to hold everything together – because I like adhesion! You could easily put it all together with just one or the other!!

Before I folded the folio over to close it up, I added a length of the seam binding from the kit across the middle, cut a slot in the hinge between the middle and last panel so I could feed the seam binding through and I would be able to tie it together when that last panel was folded in. For the end of the seam binding that came out of the edge of the folio, I added a couple of tiny staples to help keep it in place through all the tying.

I wanted to reinforce the hinges some, but I didn’t want to add a lot of bulk, so I used the cover sheet from the paper pack to reinforce the hinges on the [folded over] inside of the folio and to reinforce and add some more color to the hinges between the panels on the [visible] inside of the folio. After I had the folio folded in half and glued together, I added the last bit of seam binding to the outside of my hinges to help reinforce all the bending of the paper and cardstock.



With my base finally put together, it was time to start getting the finishing touches done, so I added the papers I had chosen for the outside of the folio. Since I was going to be adding stitching around my edge, I didn’t worry about making sure my adhesive went all the way to the edge, if you aren’t going to add stitching, you will want to make sure you have a secure seal so your cover paper doesn’t pull up!

Even though I wasn’t going to be doing my stitching yet, I wanted to get my holes made so I would know where my stitching would be, so I made a template that would help me make sure everything was spaced evenly and lined up where I wanted them. You can grab that template as a PDF from my personal DropBox if you would like to use it for your personal folio. I have it made to print on two sheets, with a little overlap in the middle to help line the holes up. Printers being what they are, you may or may not get lucky enough to have it print “perfect!” I didn’t get that lucky, but my second page was only a hair “off” so it wasn’t a big problem. (Note: Just like with the slot templates, make sure you print “actual size” and not “to fit”!)

After my holes were all poked through, I cut some 3/16” stripes of white cardstock and a 1/8” strip to use as a spacer so I could even out how my hinge papers looked. I used the 1/8” strip to add the space between the edges of the holes and the edge of the 3/16” strip. I also added 3/16” strips to the outer [vertical] edges so my slot reinforcements would sit evenly (I also have a layer of cardstock under slot reinforcements – so my tag slots are super reinforced now!). I inked up my slot covers and glued them in place.





Now it was finally time to start thinking about how I wanted to decorate the folio, and which finishing touches I wanted to add. I used my “Royal Purple” StazOn to stamp my butterfly images and to dye my seam binding tie closure. For my main image/cluster, I go over getting permanent ink to bleed out and create the shadow effect in the second video. A helpful “fix” for images that don’t stamp clearly! (Personally, if I were to do this project again, I would add my stamping to the cover paper before adding it to the folio. It was all the pocket layers that caused the stamping issues because it was no longer flat!) Anyhow, even if something goes “wrong,” there is always a “fix.” In this case, I used some 91% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol to cause my StazOn to bleed. I added my inks to the cardstock, then stamped the image on and fussy cut it out. The flowers and leaves are glued flat to the surface, offset just a touch to give a shadow effect, and the butterfly is popped up on some foam. The rest of the images I just stamped and left however they came out. (I did use a strip of cardstock to protect my seam binding covered hinges when I wanted to stamp across them.) I popped on some of the orange pearls and thought about what I wanted to add to the panel that folds in.

tagFolio-Jun2022-04 tagFolio-Jun2022-11

On that third panel that folds in, I didn’t want to just leave it blank, so I added a couple of the tags I had cut out. I glued the middle-sized tag on white cardstock near the bottom horizontally and added a tag in the next size up (second largest) as a flap with a simple tab added on. The “bloom” was stamped using the P13 stamp set that had been in February’s Cards, Tags, & More Kit.



Finally, I decided it was time to add my stitching! I just have a simple blanket stitch around the outside of the folio and some straight stitching along the hinges. I added some extra stitching to wrap up the corners of the folio, and added the last little bits to the decoration – the Prima flowers under the butterfly wings, and the green pearls along the bottom of the tag flap. With all that done, I added my tags to their slots and closed it all up!


Thank you for joining me here in my corner, I hope you enjoyed this folio project and have a chance to check out the videos that accompany it! Don’t forget to check out my Etsy shop to get the discounted cut file!

Stay Crafty, Friends

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Tres Jolie Insta Square Frame

In addition to this month’s Cards, Tags, & More Kit (*from previous Tres Jolie Kits), I used (some non-Tres Jolie Kit Club items contain an affiliate link where I earn a small commission with no extra cost to you!):

*Tim Holtz Distress Ink “Dried Marigold;” *P13 “The Four Seasons: Spring” Stamp Set; *Memento Dew Drop “Angel Pink;” CornerScrapsStudio “Folio” Digital Cut File; StazOn “Royal Purple;” We R Memory Keepers: Foam Mat, Craft Knife, Crop-A-Dile, Crop-A-Dile II, Tab Punch; *spray bottle (with water); bone folder; butterfly eyelets (1/8”); Silhouette Cameo 3; Nicapa 12×12 Cutting Mat; Sizzix Big Shot Plus; EK Tools Score Board; awl; needle; blending brushes; 91% isopropyl alcohol; rainbow variegated embroidery floss (J&P Coats); Art Glitter Glue; 1/8”, 1/4”, & 1” double sided tape; Aleene’s Tacky Glue; JudiKins Diamond Glaze; Fray-No-More; doubled-sided adhesive foam strips

Tres Jolie Kit Club–Needlebook-March 2022 Cards, Tags, & More Kit

Hey, y’all! Welcome back to the Corner Scraps Blog!

This month’s Cards, Tags, & More Kit from Tres Jolie Kit Club has the fabulous Stamperia “Threads” collection, and I couldn’t help but want to build on that sewing theme by making a needlebook (even if I do have to sew really slow to get it “right”)!

I know I normally try to stay with using the kit only or mostly for my first project of the month, but sometimes inspiration just strikes and you have to go with it! And don’t think you have to go out and buy fabric—think of what you have around your house. Do you have some old pillowcases you could re-purpose? An old shirt you no longer wear? Use what you have! This doesn’t use a lot of fabric, about 1/4 yard for the base construction–a standard pillowcase (20″x26″) would actually provide twice as much fabric as you need (overall, the fabric is approx. 12″x30″ + any small bits you may want to add).


Don’t forget to check out my video to watch me putting this together!


Page by page break-down:


Because I refer to the pages as 1 (&6), 2 (&5), and 3 (&4) in the more detailed PDF, I have decided to add “sides” for this post. For example, I have Page 1 and Page 1 side 2. Also, at the time the photos were taken, I wasn’t completely done decorating, but I think I was far along enough to show possibilities and examples?!

*Alternative: Instead of a 3-piece cover, you could just cut two pieces of fabric the size listed for the “Inside Cover.”

The front cover: In addition to the interfacing you see me add in the video, I also added some stabilizer to my rice paper squares that I added to the cover. I stitched on three of the chipboard buttons, added some stitching around the rice paper square, and added some silk ribbon embroidery roses to the buttonholes.

The back cover: Same interfacing and stabilizer were added, but I only added the stitching around the square on this back piece. *Rice paper squares: 3-3/4” x 3-3/4” you can get to this size by cutting approximately 1/8” out from the lace edge print.

Inside front cover: I added a couple of accent bits of fabric and a bit of trim that works well for holding some items.Page 1: This is my “Button” page, so I added my die-cut buttons along the top, a couple flaps of accent fabric to hold buttons, and the “Buttons” label cut from the front cover of the paper pad.
Page 1 side 2: A bit of “ruler” (I don’t think it’s to scale!) cut from the paper pad and some more flaps of accent fabric.Page 2: On this page, I added the silk ribbon roses as tack points after my needlebook was together. I did it this way because the little bits of lace goes all the way across – from edge to edge – and I didn’t want to tack it down and find out I had pulled too tight causing my page to buckle when I stitched all the pages together.
Page 2 side 2: More ribbon bits and fabric and felt flaps.Page 3: This is my “only felt” page, and I just added some bits of fabric for accent.
Page 3 side 2: More trim tuck in spots.Inside back cover: I used my Tim Holtz “Stitched Slots” Die to create a little area for holding my threads – and found the chipboard pieces were just the right size to wrap the way-ward thread around for storing! To make sure my slots were nice and sturdy for use, this is my fabric sandwich: Fabric, iron-on adhesive, fabric, iron-on adhesive, felt, iron-on interfacing. I then, very carefully, stitched along the edges.
Page 4 side 2: More felt, and I used that bit of trim to cover the backside of the stitches.Page 5: I only had a little section of that white trim, and I didn’t want to put it away since it was so small, so I cut out a felt heart, sewed the white trim on as far as it would go, then filled in the gap with the last little bit of green trim. The heart is only sewn onto the page down the center, so you can still lift the edges like flaps.
Page 5 side 2: Here is the other half of those full length trim pieces! And, to remind me to mention it, I tucked some seam binding onto the page. Depending on how much you want to sew, you could always finish the edges of your needlebook with some seam binding.Page 6: Just a little bit of accent fabric with some hand stitching and a die-cut sewing machine for decoration.
Page 6 side 2: Another “ruler” from the paper pad with some bits of fabric flaps. Lots of places in this needlebook to hold your needles!Inside back cover: I used my Tim Holtz “Stitched Slots” Die to create a little area for holding my threads – and found the chipboard pieces were just the right size to wrap way-ward thread around for storing! To make sure my slots were nice and sturdy for use, this is my fabric sandwich: Fabric, iron on adhesive, fabric, iron on adhesive, felt, iron on interfacing. I then, very carefully, stitched along the edges.


My closure! Even though I had originally planned on using snaps, I found that the “teeth” parts weren’t long enough to make it through the felt and I didn’t want to only have it attached to a single layer of fabric. Fortunately, I *knew* I had some kind of hook and eye closures in my stash so I dug them out and threw some stitches in to hold them in place.

After all of your pages are completed, line them up and stitch down the center of your book, using some straight pins inserted at the centers to guide you.


The “dots” are the pinheads, which aren’t lined up here, but I did make sure they were lined up — at the center represented by the dashed lines — before I ran the whole thing through my sewing machine. **Sorry this photo is blurry, I had to grab it from the video because I forgot to take an actual photo during construction!

Thank you for joining me here in my corner. I hope you enjoyed this needlebook project and it gave you some ideas of what you can do with this month’s Cards, Tags, & More Kit! Paper products don’t always have to be stationary, they can be made functional too!

Stay Crafty, Friends

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In addition to this month’s Cards, Tags, & More Kit, I used:

Tim Holtz “Stitched Slots” Thinlits Die; any coordinating laces, trims, fabric bits, etc. you wish to add in; Mod Podge Matte Acrylic Spray; Iron-On Adhesive (Heat-N-Bond, Pellon); Fabric Interfacing (whichever weight(s) you prefer for your project—I have light all the way to stiff interfacing/stabilizer in my needlebook); batting or heavy stabilizer (optional); Sizzix Big Shot Plus + cutting plates, CornerScrapsStudio Needlebook Pattern PDF